It’s no secret that Japan’s northern frontier is a snow-sports paradise. Every winter, powder falls by the meter in Hokkaido, and it stays. From the smallest hill to the largest mountain, Hokkaido is covered in the white stuff for almost five months of the year. At higher altitudes it starts falling as early as October and keeps coming down well into April. While this can make for a hellish winter shoveling snow and driving in white-outs for those who live here, it’s pure bliss for skiers and snowboarders.
At just over 83,000 square kilometers, the island is Japan’s largest prefecture; it occupies 22% of the nation’s landmass yet contains less than 5% of the population. It’s home to more ski and snowboard areas per person than just about anywhere else on earth (127 at last count).
In the last decade Hokkaido has attracted increasing numbers of skiers, boarders and snow-tourists from Australia, Hong Kong, South Korea, Singapore and Taiwan, who come by the tens of thousands in search of elysian slopes. From Niseko’s consistent snowfall and ski village charm, to Rusutsu’s luxury resorts and long runs, to Furano’s ultra-dry powder and steep World Cup slopes, visitors are spoiled for choice.
But while the island’s reputation as a world class winter-sports paradise is widely known and well deserved, less well known is that spring just might be the best season to ski Hokkaido.
Like the rest of the country, Hokkaido has four very distinct seasons. Autumn is cool and windy, summer is hot and humid, and winter is a non-stop subarctic assault. By contrast, spring is bliss. The heavy snowfall stops in March, the cool air is replaced by warm breezes in April, and it’s blue skies and sunshine all the way in May (or at least until the next freak spring snowstorm; yes, they happen).
The season can be a bit unpredictable and depends on the hill and the weather: hills at higher altitudes keep their snow longer; some springs are warmer than others.
But once you’ve skied or boarded Hokkaido’s slopes in spring, going in winter seems almost crazy in comparison. Deep powder, painful wind-chills and frozen noses have their appeal, but skiing in a t-shirt, getting a tan and enjoying a cold beer between runs is hard to beat. Why freeze off several layers of skin, pay peak-season prices, and stand in long lift lines in winter when you can go a little later in the year and ski in total comfort?
Spring skiing isn’t a big draw for overseas tourists, who stop coming when the snow stops falling. The usually crowded ski hills can feel almost abandoned outside of peak season and those who don’t mind a little wet snow can have slopes to themselves. Although most resorts operate fewer runs in spring and the powder is long gone, there’s still plenty of white on the slopes.
Most tour operators in Japan offer “Haru” ski packages that include airfare, accommodation, lift ticket, rental, transportation to and from the hill of your choice and even meals. Quick and inexpensive one- to three-day packages are most common.
The best way to get to Hokkaido is by air: it only takes ninety minutes to fly to Hokkaido’s Chitose Airport (30km outside of Sapporo) from Tokyo’s Haneda Airport, one of the busiest domestic routes. Japan’s two main carriers - All Nippon Airways (ANA) and Japan Airlines (JAL) - operate dozens of flights to and from Chitose every day. Ticket prices average ¥28,000, but those who book 45 days in advance can take advantage of Hokkaido International Airways’ ¥10,000 Air Do Special.
For those who prefer to keep both feet on the ground and take a train, the Tohoku shinkansen will get you to Hachinohe in Aomori Prefecture, and from there a limited express train runs to Hakodate in southern Hokkaido. From Tokyo, the trip takes 6.5 hours and tickets cost about ¥18,000. It’s then another three hours and ¥8,500 to Sapporo by regular train from there.
Several night trains also run to Sapporo daily from Osaka, Tokyo and Aomori with prices varying by season and ticket class. It’s also possible to get to Hokkaido by ferry from several ports in Japan, but the spring snow just might be spring runoff by the time you arrive.
With so much snow and so many ski areas to choose from, there might not be a “Best Five” in Hokkaido but there is certainly a “Big Five” when it comes to spring skiing. These resorts have some of the deepest bases, longest runs and best conditions. Closing dates and late-season lift ticket prices vary, so check before you book.
Niseko
With spectacular scenery, some of the best powder around and accommodations, activities and restaurants to suit just about everyone, Niseko is Hokkaido’s ‘premier’ winter-sports destination. It’s one that also receives more visitors in summer. Some claim Niseko is overrated, others insist it’s ski and snowboard heaven-on-earth, but with three interconnected resorts (Grand Hirafu, Higashiyama, Niseko Annupuri) and over 40km of slopes (including a 5.6km muscle-melter), it’s one of the largest ski and snowboard areas in Hokkaido.
Rusutsu
Rusutsu offers enough facilities and activities to keep just about anyone entertained, amused or at least distracted. It’s not so much a quaint ski resort as a purpose-built, year-round activity center: cheesy amusement park in summer, fantastic ski area in winter. Only 90 minutes from Sapporo, Rusutsu is one of the most popular ski areas in Hokkaido with three peaks and 42km of slopes.
Kiroro
Located near Otaru, a picturesque coastal town 40km west of Sapporo, Kiroro is one of the most modern and well laid-out ski resorts in Hokkaido and boasts a large, accommodating base lodge, two on-site hotels, a super-fast lift system and a variety of terrain for all levels of skiers and snowboarders. Kiroro has over 35km of slopes, an excellent rental shop and is only 40 minutes from Sapporo.
Furano
One of the most famous ski areas in Japan overlooks one of the most picturesque small towns in Hokkaido. Furano purportedly has the driest, lightest powder on earth and offers 950 vertical meters on 27km of slopes. Don’t let the relatively small size fool you: Furano has some of the most challenging runs in Japan and often hosts World Cup ski and snowboard events. Located 3 hours east of Sapporo, the small town charm, local restaurants and spectacular mountain views make the travel time worth it, spring or winter.
Tomamu
Located 150km east of Sapporo, Tomamu is a high-end ski hill aimed at affluent families, skiers and boarders. Everything about the hill - the terrain, lifts, accommodations, expert courses and off-piste skiing - is first class. All the (un)usual extra-alpine activities are here, from dog sledding to para-skiing, and there’s even an ice dome village and huge indoor wave pool. Tomamu has 25km of slopes and the longest run is 4.5km.
Dan G. Hilton writes On Japan at http://www.hiltonjapan.com
